Wireless Dimmer Circuit Project

AVR wireless dimmer Project
At first we have to modify the layout of the old Avr dimmer. I don't think the RS232 interface will be used much when we have the wireless option available, so all the parts for the RS232 will have to go, the other thing that we don't really need anymore is the crystal with the 2 capacitors, because the ATtiny2313 has a build in RC clock of 4 and 8 Mhz which is more than sufficient. One more thing that could go is the infrared receiver, but this doesn't take much room on the circuit board so I will leave it on for the moment. The last thing we need to change is the power supply. The iDwaRF module needs between 2.7 to 3.6 Volts. The ATTiny2313 will run on a voltage between 2.7 to 5.5 volts and the infrared receiver needs 2,7 to 5,5 Volts if we use the TSOP 31236. So if we decide on a power supply of 3.3 Volts all the components will be happy.

Changing the voltage from 5 to 3.3 Volts sounds easier then it turned out to be. Negative regulators of -3.3 Volt are rare and if that is not all the Wireless module seems to have a peak current of more than 60 mA. Our old design could only supply an average of 20 mA. Also I want the dimmer to be power efficient, since I might end up with 10 or more dimmers, regulating everything in the house. So I am thinking of a switching regulator. This way we have a very efficient power supply that can temperarely supply higher currents. More will follow. This will need some testing.

At first we have to modify the layout of the old Avr dimmer. I don't think the RS232 interface will be used much when we have the wireless option available, so all the parts for the RS232 will have to go, the other thing that we don't really need anymore is the crystal with the 2 capacitors, because the ATtiny2313 has a build in RC clock of 4 and 8 Mhz which is more than sufficient. One more thing that could go is the infrared receiver, but this doesn't take much room on the circuit board so I will leave it on for the moment. The last thing we need to change is the power supply. The iDwaRF module needs between 2.7 to 3.6 Volts. The ATTiny2313 will run on a voltage between 2.7 to 5.5 volts and the infrared receiver needs 2,7 to 5,5 Volts if we use the TSOP 31236. So if we decide on a power supply of 3.3 Volts all the components will be happy.

Changing the voltage from 5 to 3.3 Volts sounds easier then it turned out to be. Negative regulators of -3.3 Volt are rare and if that is not all the Wireless module seems to have a peak current of more than 60 mA. Our old design could only supply an average of 20 mA. Also I want the dimmer to be power efficient, since I might end up with 10 or more dimmers, regulating everything in the house. So I am thinking of a switching regulator. This way we have a very efficient power supply that can temperarely supply higher currents. More will follow. This will need some testing.




http://domotica.homeip.net/dimmer3.html

IR Light Dimmer v.1
This is a device for adjusting lights in your home with any type of remote controller (tv, dvd, video,…). Today we are using many devices in our homes to improve quality of our life and this is another example on how you can enhance a simple procedure like switching the lights ON/OFF. It may be difficult to many of us to stand up from our chair only to switch lights, so try imagining yourself doing this with your remote controller.



http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/motor_light/044/index.html

Projects/IR light dimmer v1
This is a very simple IR light dimmer that you will wish to have sooner or later, especially those who are lazy enough to get up and turn off the lights. There are two versions of PCB for two sizes of capacitors, so PCBs are: 32.5 x 26.5mm and 28.5 x 27mm.

Features of current beta version of firmware:
- Soft start (gradually turning on the light bulb)
- Soft down (gradually turning off the light bulb)
- Learning IR codes from RC5 and NEC remotes
- Dimming in 10 levels by using only IR remote
- Previous dimm-level remembering when operating with remote
- Sleep timer in duration of 1.6min for 60Hz version and 2min for 50Hz version
- ON/OFF control with wall pushbutton

http://www.elektronika.ba/617/ir-light-dimmer-v1




LM3445 TRIAC Dimmer Demo Video

L293D Sebagai Driver Motor

IC driver L293D merupakan H-bridge driver dengan kemampuan yang jauh lebih unggul dibandingkan H bridge biasa (terbuat dari transistor yang dirangkai menjadi H-bridge). Kelebihan itu antara lain:
1. lebih mudah pembuatannya
2. mampu menangani 2 motor
3. arus dan tegangannya relatif lebih besar daripada transistor
berikut adalah gambar datasheetnya;

gambar berikut adalah salah satu contoh design untuk mikrokontroler

IC ”AND” GATE

Merancang/membuat rangkaian logika ”AND” dengan menggunakan IC khusus (7408) yang sudah berisi gerbang-gerbang ”AND” akan terasa lebih mudah. dibandingkan jika kita menggunakan rangkaian analog. Gambar berikut merupakan bagian dalam sebuah IC 7408.


Dari gambar di atas kita dapat lihat bahwa IC 7408 memiliki:
1. 4 buah gerbang ”AND”
2. Masing-masing gerbang mempunyai 2 input dan satu output
3. Tegangan Vcc sekitar 5VDC
contoh penggunaan:
LED akan menyala ketika s1 dan s2 dalam keadaan ON.

PUSHBUTTON

Pushbutton merupakan sebuah device untuk menghubungkan dan memutuskan rangkaian listrik antara 2 titik. Penggunaan pushbutton dikehidupan sehari-hari hampir menyentuh semua bidang. Di bidang komputer dengan keyboard dan mouse, dibidang otomotif dengan panel-panel kontrolnya, bahkan diperalatan rumah tangga sekalipun seperti kontrol peralatan listrik juga menggunakan push button.

1. Aktif high pushbutton

Aktif high pushbutton merupakan pushbutton yang memiliki karakteristik saat tidak ada penekanan maka dalam keadaan terputus(off) sedangkan saat ditekan akan tersambung(on).

2. Aktif low pushbutton

Aktif low pushbutton merupakan pushbutton yangmemiliki karakteristik saat tidak ada penekanan maka dalam keadaan tersambung (on) sedangkan saat ditekan akan terputus (off).

Kita bisa membuat kedua jenis pushbutton hanya dari push on saja. Perhatikan schema berikut:

HP TX1000 Entertainment Tablet PC GPU Fix

A friend of mine ask for a favor to take a look at his HP TX1000 Entertainment Tablet PC blackout LCD problem. I have no idea on how to fix this until I found below video.






Instead of using bulb, I used a heat blower to re-flow the chip.







From my observation, there is a the gap between the GPU and the heat sink was join by a burned thermal conductive silicone sponge.







I replace this with an aluminum foil folded a couple of times to get just the right thickness.








After reassemble it back together and now, the moment of truth, Hey! it works! :-)



Thanks a lot jasonshay2. You really save my day.

8 watts tube amp stereo

all schematic elektronik,elektronik skema, amplifier, fm transmitter,tube schematic,skema tabung, transistor data set,

8 watts tube amp stereo

Download File schema HERE

schematic elektronic tube and transistor

Schematic Tube Power amplifier 6v6 watt

This circuit is similar to the 6V6 Amp except that it has two channels. It puts out about 10 watts into 8, 4, or 2 ohms. Tubes used are 6SN7, 6V6, and 5U4. Negative feedback is taken off the output transformer's secondary.


WARNING!

Tube circuitry uses lethal amounts of current at high voltages. Be extremely careful when constructing any types of tube circuitry. Here are some tips for building circuits safely:

When testing circuits, do not stand on metal or anything grounded.

When measuring voltages in the circuit, use only one hand.

Never work on a circuit while it is plugged in.

Discharge filter capacitors through a resistor after turning off the circuit.

Wait for tubes to cool before handling or removing.

Use common sense and don't do anything stupid.

Note: I am not responsible for injury or death as a result of carelessness in the construction of the circuits on this site.

Download File schema HERE

schematic elektronic tube and transistor